My Anton Ego Moment

by Allison Jackson

Recently I had what I’ve come to call my “Anton Ego moment.” For those of you familiar with Disney Pixar’s hilarious animated adventure Ratatouille, you know what I’m talking about. For those of you who haven’t seen the movie, a brief explanation…

In Ratatouille’s version of the Paris food scene, Anton Ego is a perpetually grouchy and jaded restaurant critic feared by all and widely known as “The Grim Eater.” Ego decides he will review Gusteau’s -- once the culinary juggernaut in Paris, but now a restaurant quickly losing its luster and reputation.

A classic Ego quote from the movie occurs when he tells chef Linguini (and Linguini’s secret helper, Remy the rat) that he will be reviewing the restaurant.

“I don't like food, I love it. If I don't love it, I don't swallow.”

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Ego returns the next night and is served Remy the rat’s brilliant version of the humble peasant dish, ratatouille. Ego looks at his plate curiously, takes one bite and freezes. He suddenly is transported back to his childhood days when his mother prepared the same dish in the south of France. All of Ego’s cynicism is washed away, and he sheds one solitary tear of joy.

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Well, I’m not exactly the critic Ego is, but I attend my share of catering tastings -- and while always appreciative of the opportunity to be part of a tasting, let’s just say a person can only eat so many filet mignons and potatoes anna. That’s why I was so blown away by a recent tasting at Occasions Caterers.

I was at Occasions to participate in a tasting of the suggested wedding menu for Brook and Brian, a couple who will soon be relocating to Costa Rica. Eric Michael and Joel Wolke of Occasions custom-designed a fabulous, original, and intentionally unfussy menu of island-spiced pulled chicken with masa, black beans and rice and the best sweet plantains I think I have ever had. But not even the plantains prepared me for what would happen next. I was passed a platter of gorgeous late summer vegetables, a mix of kabocha squash, green beans and shiitake mushrooms. Just as I was serving myself some vegetables, I noticed they seemed to have been tossed in a sunflower seed vinaigrette. I took a bite and nearly dropped my fork.

Just like Ego, a deeply embedded food memory transported me back to my early childhood, and it was a surprisingly emotional moment for me. The chef at Occasions had served up nearly the same dressing my mother used every time she made a salad for our family. And that was pretty much every day of my young life.

Below my mother participates in a photo shoot for Better Homes and Gardens (1978), surely pretending to make the salad with sunflower seed dressing.

And also a few test Polaroids from another BHG photo shoot (circa 1976) – these featuring my mother and younger brother. As I got older, my brother became part of the reason sunflower seeds remained around. He grew up to be a baseball player, and munching sunflower seeds was a dugout ritual.

Getting back to the dish created by Occasions…even if you take away my personal connection to the sunflower seed vinaigrette, this roasted vegetable salad is the perfect addition to any fall cocktail buffet. It’s chock full of healthy stuff, colorful and delicious! Consider calling Occasions – as I did last week – and having them prepare it for you next time you are entertaining and need an impressive side dish. Or visit your local farmers’ market over the weekend, pick up whichever seasonal vegetables look good to you, roast the vegetables and toss them in this simple vinaigrette. Then sprinkle with roasted sunflower seeds. The salad will taste equally great served warm or at room temperature.

Melissa’s Dressing  (recipe courtesy of my mother)

½ cup sunflower oil or good quality olive oil

Juice from one fresh lemon, about 2 tbsp.

Kosher salt to taste

Freshly ground pepper to taste

Roasted sunflower seeds

Whisk the oil into the lemon juice gradually, in a slow stream. Salt and pepper to taste. Toss vegetables or leafy greens in dressing, and sprinkle with sunflower seeds.