Residents of the Washington metropolitan area are frequently trendsetters in adopting environmentally friendly changes in the way they live. One of the current trends involves the use of locally produced food products. Currently, the metropolitan area boasts some of the most innovative farmers’ markets in the country. These days a visit to one of the fifteen plus markets found throughout the region could mean rubbing elbows with the likes of José Andrés (of Jaleo and Zaytinya fame) or even Michelle Obama, not to mention other capital city celebrities who just can’t resist the allure of local produce. With a surge in excitement about supporting local growers and producers, it has become apparent that sustainability is not just a buzzword. For some, buying from local growers has become the motivation for a completely new outlook on how to think about acquiring and preparing food.
Locavore groups are helping to generate what is being dubbed the local food movement in this country and in numerous countries throughout the world. Though the accepted definition of a locavore is an individual who seeks out locally produced food, many locavores have put a finer point on this definition and try to consume food that has been produced within a narrow geographical area, such as within a 50, 100, or 150-mile radius. One of the main arguments for becoming a locavore is to promote sustainability. Less need for environmentally deleterious transportation and processing make locally grown goods more attractive.
This increased interest in locally-produced goods prompted me to ask how the principles of the local food movement are being applied on a larger scale in catering. To find some answers, we contacted two of our favorite catering companies to work with, Alison Fisher at Main Event Caterers and Steve Dunn at Well Dunn Catering.
Pineapple Productions: In the last year, have you seen your clients’ interest in locally-sourced menus increase?
Main Event: Interest has dramatically increased over years past starting in 2008. There is a lot more demand for information on pricing and availability but we are finding that it is not turning into actual purchases. Most clients that end up buying locally sourced products from us are green/environmental companies, environmental lobby groups, animal rights groups, or themed events. We propose locally sourced options when possible and, as an alternative, we also suggest organic products, which can reduce costs by almost 50%. This has been a more popular choice by our clients.
Well Dunn: There has been a substantial increase in interest concerning locally-sourced and organic menus, in particular with weddings who are looking to “go green.”
PP: Farm-to-table, which some individuals describe as eating food grown within a 100-mile radius, has become a popular term in the culinary world and is often a misleading claim. Many times it is nearly impossible to source within such a small radius chefs are forced to source beyond their “local” farms. How difficult is it to source entirely locally in this region?
ME: It is rather complex. The local farms that can meet our demand stretch well beyond the 100-mile mark, forcing us to recognize a 200- 400-mile radius as local to increase the supply and variety of product and the quantities that we need. To complicate matters the catering equation requires that we have 100% supply of the contracted menu. Mainline distribution guarantees a consistent supply whereas local farms in many circumstances cannot guarantee availability and or exact quantities. Sometimes these restrictions on availability require us to order from several farmers at a time if possible. Since most of these products are perishable, we work on an average of a 24-hour window of delivery to plate so without reliable quantities we compromise the quality of our events. Restaurants have the flexibility of selling dishes until they run out or even to pull off ingredients from daily menus when faced with variable deliveries. In catering we have a contractual obligation to provide as promised at a specific time and date. Without iron-clad control over the supply chain we leave ourselves vulnerable.
WD: Well Dunn has been sourcing produce locally for almost twenty years as I have had a particular interest in the farming community of Rappahannock County. Many more items have been available during that time, especially poultry and dairy products and now we are starting to look to local farms for lamb and beef.
PP: Seasonality of certain ingredients is bound to affect the availability. Is there a certain time of year where it is simply impossible to source a menu that uses all locally-grown (within 100 miles) ingredients?
ME: A 100-mile “locavore” menu can be achieved all year round but is limited so our clients need to be flexible. We could easily do a 50-person event in mid January and create a winter menu of bison, winter greens, beets, oysters etc. But try to do the same menu for a group of 500 and we run into supply issues. The larger the event, the more difficult it is to achieve. For the DC catering industry it is feasible but not practical and potentially not profitable.
WD: Seasonality is a challenge, so we work with farm schedules to try and sell products available at the time of an event. Today I had a tasting for a wedding in May and I incorporated ingredients such as asparagus and strawberries, letting the client know that local sourcing should be available at the time of the wedding. I think it actually makes menus more interesting to work within the parameters of the seasons. I just wrote a menu for a dinner in November using locally grown “sweety pie” squash and serving it with a tiny grilled cheese Panini made with local cows milk cheese
ME: A locally sourced menu adds an average of 100% to the cost of the menu and can limit the clients’ choices. Size of the event is also a factor, 100 vs 1000. So for example, it would be almost impossible to source fresh tenderloins of 60 heads of cattle at any one given time. Furthermore, the local farmer is currently set up for retail distribution to CSA’s [Community Supported Agriculture], farmers’ markets, and drop zones - not wholesale, so the discounts we receive are minimal or non-existent and are passed on to the client.
WD: Cost is a major difference using local ingredients, but I think many people would rather pay the same price and serve a fricassee of locally raised free range roasted chicken served over a polenta cake made with locally milled corn, than a piece of beef from a cattle lot.
PP: Why do you think the local movement and the increase in self-dubbed locavores have become so popular? Do you think sustainability is the main goal? What do you think are the other reasons contributing to this movement?
ME: Locavore is an outgrowth of the environmental consciousness that has made recent inroads into our society. This momentum has gained popularity because people are much more receptive to health and environmental concerns and understand the added benefits of local and organic farming.
WD: The urban farmers’ markets have brought a huge awareness to people of local farms offering different and delicious foods that can’t be had in major grocery markets. People want to feel connected and nourished by what they eat. So I think sustainability is certainly a concern, but I think there is an emotional component to eating food that you know was sourced locally.
PP: How has your business been affected by the local movement?
ME: We are much more attuned to the growing demand and in turn are developing the channels of distribution by supporting local producers and businesses.
WD: We have been affected primarily by promoting local menus that we feel are different and unique to appeal to a more sophisticated culinary audience.
PP: How has your business made efforts to become more environmentally-friendly?
In addition to an advanced recycling program and the use of solar energy in their offices, Main Event offsets the amount of energy used from Dominion Power by purchasing energy from a wind farm. This energy is funneled to the “grid” and reduces the company’s reliance on non-sustainable energy. The company also purchases carbon offsets to mitigate the effects of fuel emissions from their delivery trucks and from employee cars.
As far as food goes, we strive to use local products and have actually worked with one farm with ideas for product development.
PP: What changes to your business do you anticipate in the future as a result of this increasing interest in eating locally-grown ingredients?
ME: We are continually seeking out new producers and supporting their operations by purchasing their products. In some instances we have converted a percentage of our purchasing from mainstream to local, such as in dairy where we have shifted 25% of our purchasing this year (50% more expensive to us). We believe through simple economic demand the markets will shift over time to improve availability, cost and supply of local products. We are excited to take our part in supporting this burgeoning marketplace and shifting away from large agribusiness.
WD: I think all caterers will continue to develop menus using specific local ingredients as eating local foods has become more than passing fashion. With the popularity of authors like Michael Pollan films such as Food Inc going mainstream I think the appreciation of local foods is becoming part of American culture in the same way it has been in Italy for several centuries.
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